Gold vermeil, gold plated and gold filled jewelry can look almost identical on the day you buy them. A few months later they can look very different. The three terms describe how much real gold is used and how it is attached to the metal underneath, and that decides how long a piece keeps its colour, whether it is likely to irritate your skin and whether it is worth the price. Here is what each term means, how they compare, and which one to choose for the way you wear jewelry.
Gold Plated
Gold plated jewelry has a very thin layer of gold applied by electroplating over a base metal such as brass, copper or stainless steel, and sometimes over silver. The piece is placed in a chemical bath and an electric current deposits gold onto its surface.
The layer can be extremely thin, often well under one micron, which is why gold plated pieces are affordable. In the United States, the FTC Jewelry Guides allow terms such as “gold plate” or “gold electroplate” when the karat of the gold layer is stated, and reserve “heavy gold electroplate” for a layer of at least 2.5 microns of gold of at least 10 karat.
Pros: the lowest price, huge choice of trend pieces, good for occasional wear.
Cons: the plating wears away with friction, sweat, water and chemicals, sometimes in weeks on rings and bracelets. Once it wears through, the base metal shows and can turn skin green or trigger a reaction in people sensitive to nickel or copper.
Gold Vermeil
Vermeil (pronounced “ver-may”) is a specific kind of gold plating with stricter rules. Under the FTC Jewelry Guides, a product can be described as vermeil only if it has a base of sterling silver coated or plated with gold of at least 10 karat, with a minimum thickness equivalent to 2.5 microns of fine gold. Anything thinner, or plated over a base metal other than sterling silver, should not be sold as vermeil in the US.
That thickness is many times greater than ordinary flash plating, and the sterling silver base is a precious metal in its own right. Many quality brands use 14k or 18k gold for their vermeil and layers of 2.5 microns or more.
Pros: a thick real gold layer, a precious metal base that does not contain the nickel found in some cheap alloys, far more durable than standard plating, a fraction of the price of solid gold.
Cons: it is still a coating and will eventually wear, especially on rings. If the gold wears through, the silver underneath can tarnish. Rules outside the US can differ, so the word alone is not a guarantee; check the stated thickness and karat.
Gold Filled
Despite the name, gold filled jewelry is not filled with gold. It is made by bonding a thick layer of gold alloy to a base metal core, usually brass, with heat and pressure, then rolling or drawing it into wire and sheet. The result is a much thicker layer than plating.
Under the FTC guides, “gold filled” can be used only when the gold layer makes up at least 1/20 of the total weight of the metal in the piece. You will often see it marked as “1/20 14K GF” or “1/20 12K GF”. When the gold layer is less than 1/20 by weight, the correct term is “rolled gold plate” with the fraction stated, such as “1/40 12K RGP”.
Pros: very durable for the price, often lasts for many years with normal care, does not flake like plating, generally fine for sensitive skin because the brass core is sealed inside a thick gold layer.
Cons: the base metal is not precious, so the piece has little scrap value beyond its gold content. Designs are more limited, since gold filled material is harder to work into intricate shapes than cast pieces.
Side by Side Comparison
- Base metal: plated can be anything, vermeil is sterling silver, gold filled is usually brass.
- Gold layer: plated is often a fraction of a micron, vermeil at least 2.5 microns of 10k or higher, gold filled at least 1/20 of total weight.
- Durability: plated wears fastest, vermeil lasts much longer with care, gold filled is the most durable of the three.
- Price: plated is cheapest, then gold filled and vermeil, which are usually in a similar range, with solid gold well above all three.
- Skin sensitivity: plated is the most likely to cause problems once worn, vermeil and gold filled are usually well tolerated.
And Solid Gold?
Solid gold jewelry, such as 10k, 14k or 18k, is gold alloy all the way through. It cannot wear through to another metal, it can be polished and resized repeatedly, and it holds scrap value based on its weight and karat. It costs much more, but for pieces you wear every day, such as a wedding band or a chain you never take off, it is often the better value over time. If you are building a collection around gold, our guide on accessorizing with gold jewelry for different occasions helps you decide where solid gold is worth it.
Which One Should You Buy?
- Trend pieces and occasional wear: gold plated is fine, as long as you accept it is not forever.
- Everyday necklaces and earrings on a budget: gold vermeil or gold filled.
- Rings and bracelets that rub against surfaces: gold filled or solid gold, since these parts wear coatings fastest.
- Sensitive skin: vermeil, gold filled or solid gold, and check that the piece is nickel free.
- Pieces to keep for decades or pass on: solid gold.
How to Make Coated Gold Last Longer
- Put jewelry on last, after perfume, lotion and hairspray.
- Take it off before showering, swimming, exercising and cleaning.
- Wipe it with a soft dry cloth after wearing to remove sweat and oil.
- Clean only with mild soapy water and a very soft brush, then dry completely. Avoid polishing cloths with abrasives, dips, vinegar soaks and ultrasonic cleaners, all of which can strip the gold layer.
- Store pieces separately in a pouch or lined box so they do not scratch each other.
Quick Summary
Gold plated is a thin layer over any metal and wears quickly. Gold vermeil is a thicker layer of at least 10k gold and 2.5 microns over sterling silver. Gold filled is a thick layer bonded to a brass core, making up at least 1/20 of the weight, and is the toughest of the three. Read the stamp, ask about karat and thickness, and match the type to how often you will wear the piece.